oldering and brazing are essentially the same practice, but the only difference is the temperature of the flame used. The American Welding Society deems soldering as a joining process that takes place under 840 degrees Fahrenheit, and brazing as a joining process using a heat of 840 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. Nonetheless, most soldering is done between the temperatures of 350 and 600 degrees Fahrenheit, and brazing is usually done between 1100 and 1500 degrees. Choosing between soldering and brazing depends on the conditions of the welding job as well as the requirements of the governing construction codes. Solder joints are used for systems that are as hot as 250 degrees Fahrenheit, while brazed joints are adequate when a system's temperature is as high as 350 degrees or where greater joint resiliency is necessary.
There is another essential detail to consider when choosing between soldered and brazed joints. Although brazed joints are ideal for systems requiring greater joint strength, the rated pressure of a brazed system can often be less than that of a soldered system due to the greater degree of heat used in its process. Too many people use inefficient or downright irresponsible techniques when installing their copper tube and fittings. Although soldering and brazing are the most common methods used for joints and fittings, they are the least understood methods as well. A mistake in soldering and brazing copper tubing will inevitably lead to faulty joints and leaking lines. There are many possible errors that can lead to improper installation, including:
- Improper joint preparation prior to soldering
- Lack of proper support and/or hanging during soldering or brazing
- Improper heat control and heat distribution through the entire joining process
- Improper application of solder or brazing filler metal to the joint
- Inadequate amount of filler metal applied to the joint
- Sudden shock cooling and/or wiping the molten filler metal following soldering or brazing
- Pre-tinning of joints prior to assembly and soldering
Soldering and brazing are essentially simple household operations, however it is easy to overlook or forget to complete particular steps in the process. It is by paying attention to these tedious steps that will make the difference between a joint that is strong and one that will be faulty.
Tags: Solder Soldering Wire Jewelry Soldering 0402 Soldering Capacitors Soldering Flux Cold Soldering Lead Soldering Gun Soldering Iron Weller Iron Brazing Soldering Silver Soldering Welding Pace Soldering
Pass Plumbing Test
The International Plumbing License test is hard to gain a pass from. In order to win an authorized plumbing license, everyone must pass a government authorized plumbing test. Without a proper plumbing guide, this test proves to be an obstacle for many good plumber apprentices and school learning plumbers. But there are sources which provide simple solutions to this situation. As far as the International Plumbing License test is concerned, the book you get is a tome. Have you tried reading through the International Plumbing Code and International Gas Code? There are few books I've read that are more dense. Am I thick? Or is it that the guide is at fault and is actually making it more difficult to pass my plumbing test?
Those are the things I used to ask myself. I also wondered, 'Perhaps I'm just getting very frustrated with waffle I know I need to understand, or perhaps there really is some reason for this plumbing test that does make sense. Whatever the case, understanding the rules and regulations can not be avoided.' I'm now aware that in the USA an average plumber earns 1.2 times that of the pay-packet of an average attorney. (Figures: 2008). In Europe, the average plumber's pipe reaches 1.9 times longer than an accountant's. That's right. But when I first started plumbing, I had no idea about how much I would enjoy it or just how much I would earn from it. So how did I pass my plumbing license test? I looked through the International Plumbing and Gas Codes. I knew I was a great practical plumber, but I just couldn't cope with the codes. I was about half way there, but I needed a good guide to explain what the plumbers' bible was saying.
So I got a guide. Any good plumbers' test guide should include: guides and definitions which include illustrations, figuring and calculating fixtures required, water distribution throughout the project, including sizing, plans and design, sanitary drain sizes and planning, storm drainage sizing, septic tank and drain field sizing with local planning, gas pipe sizes and distribution, gas appliance venting, accounting and returns (if you're planning on going it alone), and plumbing symbols and isometrics.
Try your current knowledge now: A three-compartment sink is an example of a what fixture? The gross area of an exhibition facility is 10,000 square feet. What number of individual people is used to calculate facilities? The distance from a meter to a natural gas water heater (40,000 btuh) is 30 feet, 20 feet further down the line is a furnace (120,000btuh). What is the minimum gas pipe size that must be used between the water heater and furnace? (pressure drop =.05) a. 3/8" b. ½" c. ¾" d.1".
Tags: Plumbing Diagrams Plumbing Fixtures Exam Question Paper Plumbing Tools Plumbing Heatings Ferguson Plumbing Repairs Installations Exam Result Plumbing Design Examination Bathroom Sink Plumbing Plumbers Toilet Plumbing Kitchen Plumbing Services
Those are the things I used to ask myself. I also wondered, 'Perhaps I'm just getting very frustrated with waffle I know I need to understand, or perhaps there really is some reason for this plumbing test that does make sense. Whatever the case, understanding the rules and regulations can not be avoided.' I'm now aware that in the USA an average plumber earns 1.2 times that of the pay-packet of an average attorney. (Figures: 2008). In Europe, the average plumber's pipe reaches 1.9 times longer than an accountant's. That's right. But when I first started plumbing, I had no idea about how much I would enjoy it or just how much I would earn from it. So how did I pass my plumbing license test? I looked through the International Plumbing and Gas Codes. I knew I was a great practical plumber, but I just couldn't cope with the codes. I was about half way there, but I needed a good guide to explain what the plumbers' bible was saying.
So I got a guide. Any good plumbers' test guide should include: guides and definitions which include illustrations, figuring and calculating fixtures required, water distribution throughout the project, including sizing, plans and design, sanitary drain sizes and planning, storm drainage sizing, septic tank and drain field sizing with local planning, gas pipe sizes and distribution, gas appliance venting, accounting and returns (if you're planning on going it alone), and plumbing symbols and isometrics.
Try your current knowledge now: A three-compartment sink is an example of a what fixture? The gross area of an exhibition facility is 10,000 square feet. What number of individual people is used to calculate facilities? The distance from a meter to a natural gas water heater (40,000 btuh) is 30 feet, 20 feet further down the line is a furnace (120,000btuh). What is the minimum gas pipe size that must be used between the water heater and furnace? (pressure drop =.05) a. 3/8" b. ½" c. ¾" d.1".
Tags: Plumbing Diagrams Plumbing Fixtures Exam Question Paper Plumbing Tools Plumbing Heatings Ferguson Plumbing Repairs Installations Exam Result Plumbing Design Examination Bathroom Sink Plumbing Plumbers Toilet Plumbing Kitchen Plumbing Services
Polypropylene Pipes And PVC pipes Manufacture
Manufacturing of Polypropylene Pipes:- Polypropylene Pipes (PP) pipes are manufactured by extrusion in the same way as PE pipes. Particularly in the case of PP pipes there are several different molecular structures available on the market. In the simplest case the molecular chain is built up of one and the same repeating unit often the same as the monomer shown within the brackets). The polymer is then called homo-polymer. If instead the molecular chain is built up of two different repeating units( A and B) the polymers is called co-polymer. In the case of PP the homo-polymer, often designated to PP-h, the repeating unit A is the monomer propylene. In PP co-polymers, designated to PP-c, the unit B is the monomer ethylene. Dependent on how the repeating units A and B are arranged in the molecular chain, distinction is made between alternating, co-polymers: "ABABAB..." (PP-c), block co-polymer :"AAAA....BBBB....AAAA...." (PP-b) and random co-polymers "AABABBAABBAAA....."(PP-r). In the later case the co-polymer is built up at random by the units A and B.
The stiffness of the PP pipe will decline in the order: PP-h-PP-b-PP-r and consequently the impact strength will increase simultaneousness. It has also been found that the long-term strength at elevated temperature: (600 C ) will increase when going from PP-h to PP-r most commonly used for PP sewer pipes and for cold water pipes id PP-b . Particularly for sewer pipe purpose new high molecular weight resins have been developed recently. The melt flow rate expressed as MFR230/2 may be in the range of 0.3g/10min. This value corresponds approximately to 0.6 expressed as MFR190/5 normally used for PE. The most significant property for these new PP grades from a practical point of view as far as buried pipes is concerned, is the rather high short term E- modulus; i.e. Approximately 50% above corresponding values for the most common PE grades. The density of the PP compound is lower than for corresponding PE resins, or approximately900kg/m3 as compared with 950-960kg/m3 for PE. The designation for these polyethylene resins is PP 80. By improvement of PP-r grades high temperature resistant hot tap water pipes have been introduced recently. They can compete with PB for many hot water applications, but are easier to process than pex and safer than PB as far as strength reproducibility is concerned. Furthermore, the PP pipes can be jointed by welding , which is not the case with pex.
Manufacturing of Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes :- Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes (PVC ) and P P R pipes can be manufactured with or without plasticizer. Examples of the former are garden hose, floor tiling and household articles. The addition of plasticizer increases material flexibility, but leads to some deterioration in other physical properties. Furthermore, some plasticizer display a tendency to migrate, escaping in the course of time so that the plastics becomes brittle. For these reasons, no pastiches are used in the manufacturer of PVC pipes for water mains and sewers. In this respect, the material is characterized as rigid PVC and this variety is termed PVC-U according to ISO.
As in the case of PE, where melt flow rate describes the molecular weight of the material, PVC makes use of what is termed the K- value, It may be determined in various ways , but in the following pages consideration is given to the value obtained in accordance with the Fikentscher method, based on 1% PVC in Cyclohexanone at 25 C. A K-value of 65 determined in accordance with this method corresponds to viscosity grade of 105 according to ISO/R 174, 1961. K-value increase with rising mean molecular weight of the polymers, i.e. With greater molecule length. As for PE, the strength of a PVC material then improves, but at the same time it becomes more difficult to process. The K-value of PVC pipes normally lies in the range of 65-70, another definitive characteristic of PVC is its softening temperature, as compressed as what is termed the softening point (Vicat-Point). Normally this lies between 70 C and 80 C . A rise in softening point leads to improved distortion resistance to heat and as a rule, also improved strength properties. Distinctions are made in raw materials between emulsion, suspension and bulk resins. Manufacturing processes based on this order of raw materials, ensure, among other things, increased purity and lower water absorption in the PVC material. The most common type is suspension PVC (S-PVC), although emulsion PVC (E-PVC) also exists.
Tags: Polypropylene Fabrics Fiber Market Polypropylene Process Polypropylene Plastic Polymer Properties Polystyrene Polycarbonate Extrusion Polymer Resin Transparent Polypropylene Recycled Polypropylene PVC Plastic Resin Plastic Properties PVC Pipe Fittings PVC Bodenbelag PVC Poly Parker Fittings PVC Tube Plastic Fabrication Poly Tanks PVC Hose Polyethylene PVC Plastic PVC Tubing PVC Manufacturing Plastic Tubing PVC Valve Sanitary Fittings
The stiffness of the PP pipe will decline in the order: PP-h-PP-b-PP-r and consequently the impact strength will increase simultaneousness. It has also been found that the long-term strength at elevated temperature: (600 C ) will increase when going from PP-h to PP-r most commonly used for PP sewer pipes and for cold water pipes id PP-b . Particularly for sewer pipe purpose new high molecular weight resins have been developed recently. The melt flow rate expressed as MFR230/2 may be in the range of 0.3g/10min. This value corresponds approximately to 0.6 expressed as MFR190/5 normally used for PE. The most significant property for these new PP grades from a practical point of view as far as buried pipes is concerned, is the rather high short term E- modulus; i.e. Approximately 50% above corresponding values for the most common PE grades. The density of the PP compound is lower than for corresponding PE resins, or approximately900kg/m3 as compared with 950-960kg/m3 for PE. The designation for these polyethylene resins is PP 80. By improvement of PP-r grades high temperature resistant hot tap water pipes have been introduced recently. They can compete with PB for many hot water applications, but are easier to process than pex and safer than PB as far as strength reproducibility is concerned. Furthermore, the PP pipes can be jointed by welding , which is not the case with pex.
Manufacturing of Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes :- Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes (PVC ) and P P R pipes can be manufactured with or without plasticizer. Examples of the former are garden hose, floor tiling and household articles. The addition of plasticizer increases material flexibility, but leads to some deterioration in other physical properties. Furthermore, some plasticizer display a tendency to migrate, escaping in the course of time so that the plastics becomes brittle. For these reasons, no pastiches are used in the manufacturer of PVC pipes for water mains and sewers. In this respect, the material is characterized as rigid PVC and this variety is termed PVC-U according to ISO.
As in the case of PE, where melt flow rate describes the molecular weight of the material, PVC makes use of what is termed the K- value, It may be determined in various ways , but in the following pages consideration is given to the value obtained in accordance with the Fikentscher method, based on 1% PVC in Cyclohexanone at 25 C. A K-value of 65 determined in accordance with this method corresponds to viscosity grade of 105 according to ISO/R 174, 1961. K-value increase with rising mean molecular weight of the polymers, i.e. With greater molecule length. As for PE, the strength of a PVC material then improves, but at the same time it becomes more difficult to process. The K-value of PVC pipes normally lies in the range of 65-70, another definitive characteristic of PVC is its softening temperature, as compressed as what is termed the softening point (Vicat-Point). Normally this lies between 70 C and 80 C . A rise in softening point leads to improved distortion resistance to heat and as a rule, also improved strength properties. Distinctions are made in raw materials between emulsion, suspension and bulk resins. Manufacturing processes based on this order of raw materials, ensure, among other things, increased purity and lower water absorption in the PVC material. The most common type is suspension PVC (S-PVC), although emulsion PVC (E-PVC) also exists.
Tags: Polypropylene Fabrics Fiber Market Polypropylene Process Polypropylene Plastic Polymer Properties Polystyrene Polycarbonate Extrusion Polymer Resin Transparent Polypropylene Recycled Polypropylene PVC Plastic Resin Plastic Properties PVC Pipe Fittings PVC Bodenbelag PVC Poly Parker Fittings PVC Tube Plastic Fabrication Poly Tanks PVC Hose Polyethylene PVC Plastic PVC Tubing PVC Manufacturing Plastic Tubing PVC Valve Sanitary Fittings
High Pressure Water Jetting
The drainage industry is growing in leaps and bounds. The rise in heavily packed households and town ships where drainage systems are implemented with more planning and precision, importance has been given to the maintenance aspect of the drainage industry sector. Both in the commercial and domestic sectors, drainage companies have brought in many new technologies for the better treatment of drainage and sewages. Technologies such as CCTV surveys are very popular amongst the drainage companies, but the most popular and most preferred drainage related issues are high pressure water jetting equipment. High pressure water jetting is done by using drain jetting equipment which can also be named jet vaccumation. Water is pumped by using large pressure into the drainage lines or sewage lines. This cleans all the debris and other wastes that are accumulated in the drain. Using this method is any easy way to clean the pipe line. High pressure water jetting can help to bring the drainage line back to its original condition without replacing the pipeline. Cleaning drains with high pressure water jetting equipment is a cost effective method. If jetting machines are used for drainage cleaning, the work becomes easy and value for money.
Most people do not give much importance to the maintenance part of their drainage systems. People are only bothered when they have to face up to problems with the system. When no due care is given to the drainage system, a small issue has now changed to a larger issue, which then makes the job an expensive one. Drainage cleaning is essential for the benefit of yourself and also people who live nearby. A stinky drain is a nuisance for your neighbourhood. It is essential that you do not deposit huge amounts of waste items through any of your sinks. Solid items thrown out into the drains may cause blockages within the drainage pipes.
Cleaning your drains with high pressure water jetting machines are far more effective than using any other methods of drain cleaning. Cleaning the drain with a water jetting machine can make the drain cleaner for a longer period. Using quality material for your plumbing works is very important in the drainage design. If low quality pipes are used in your installation of your drainage, there are chances for the pipes to break while water is pumped in with high pressure. Finally, you will have to reinstall the entire drainage system, which will be a costly affair. Effective use of water pressure jetting equipment is possible only with all these factors in mind.
Tags: Waterjet Parts Water Pumps Finding Water Nozzles Water Jetting High Pressure Valve CNC Cutting Machine Water Jet Aqua Jet Flow Geothermal Heat Pumps Water Resistant Jetting Systems Water Pumping Pressure Water Cleaning Water Cutting
Most people do not give much importance to the maintenance part of their drainage systems. People are only bothered when they have to face up to problems with the system. When no due care is given to the drainage system, a small issue has now changed to a larger issue, which then makes the job an expensive one. Drainage cleaning is essential for the benefit of yourself and also people who live nearby. A stinky drain is a nuisance for your neighbourhood. It is essential that you do not deposit huge amounts of waste items through any of your sinks. Solid items thrown out into the drains may cause blockages within the drainage pipes.
Cleaning your drains with high pressure water jetting machines are far more effective than using any other methods of drain cleaning. Cleaning the drain with a water jetting machine can make the drain cleaner for a longer period. Using quality material for your plumbing works is very important in the drainage design. If low quality pipes are used in your installation of your drainage, there are chances for the pipes to break while water is pumped in with high pressure. Finally, you will have to reinstall the entire drainage system, which will be a costly affair. Effective use of water pressure jetting equipment is possible only with all these factors in mind.
Tags: Waterjet Parts Water Pumps Finding Water Nozzles Water Jetting High Pressure Valve CNC Cutting Machine Water Jet Aqua Jet Flow Geothermal Heat Pumps Water Resistant Jetting Systems Water Pumping Pressure Water Cleaning Water Cutting
Copper Pipe PEX Plumbing is Here to Stay
A home plumbing system should meet the needs of the homeowners. If the homeowners want hot water on demand or leak-free connections, then the system should be able to handle it. The longer someone waits for hot water to reach the faucet or shower head, the more water goes down the drain. A typical homeowner loses 12,000 to 38,000 gallons of water per year waiting for hot water. A plumbing system should also be both durable and reliable. No one wants to discover water stains on the first floor ceiling or mold growing underneath the carpet in the master bedroom. In many instances, water has been leaking for a while before the damage is discovered. A plumbing system that can provide peace of mind is essential.
Today, most homes have copper pipe plumbing systems for water distribution. Copper pipe is easier to work with than other metals like lead and iron, and it's relatively non-toxic. The availability and water-resistant properties of copper have made it the first choice for most homebuilders for the past century. But as new materials are developed and the price of copper increases, copper piping is no longer the first choice for plumbing systems. A relative newcomer, PEX, is quickly gaining popularity as an excellent material for water supply systems.
Copper pipe plumbing systems The conventional copper pipe method of plumbing requires that the water supply line branch at the water heater, with the hot water line running through the water heater and then running in tandem with the cold water line throughout the home. Smaller-diameter lines branch off from the main lines to serve water-using fixtures and appliances. This plumbing system requires more fittings, and pipe sizes vary according to the loads they carry. With this system, the water supply is subject to pressure loss if several fixtures on a branch are used at once. Copper pipe also has to be run around obstacles, so more connections and intersections are required. Sweating and connecting the joints of a copper plumbing system takes time. Furthermore, after construction, the pipe connections are inaccessible. Since many of the joints are hidden behind finished walls, if there's a leak, the homeowner may not realize it until substantial water damage has been done to the home. Repairs from water leaks can be costly and difficult.
PEX plumbing systems A new method for water distribution in residential homes is gaining popularity among homebuilders. Known as PEX plumbing, cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is a flexible plastic piping composed of individual molecules that have been permanently linked together. Cross-linking the molecules creates a durable, stable plastic that can't be melted and reshaped. The unique features of PEX allow it to be configured in a number of different ways that can increase the performance and water savings associated with the plumbing system. Copper and CPVC are both reliable materials for plumbing systems; however, PEX tubing has several important advantages that make it the best choice for water distribution:
* PEX requires fewer connections. The tubing is available in long coils and is flexible enough to bend around obstructions without the use of connections. Fewer connections mean fewer opportunities for connections to leak and cause water damage.
* PEX is easier to install. Fewer fittings and a lightweight, flexible nature mean PEX tubing can be easily run around and through obstacles in the home and can be installed more quickly - resulting in lower labor costs.
* PEX reduces maintenance and repair costs. Service is relatively simple, since manifolds are corrosion-resistant and the connections are visible. PEX is plastic, so it doesn't experience pitting, either.
* PEX improves energy efficiency. It reduces the amount of heat lost from water in the piping, increases the response time of hot water, and decreases the amount of energy the water heater uses to deliver hot water.
Tags: PEX Water Pipe Plumbing Design PEX Tubing Plumbing Problem Toilet Plumbing Kitchen Plumbing PEX Fittings Toilet Installation Plumbing Fitting Plumbing Services Septic Systems Plumbing Repair Plastic Tubing Plastic Fabrication Water Leak
Today, most homes have copper pipe plumbing systems for water distribution. Copper pipe is easier to work with than other metals like lead and iron, and it's relatively non-toxic. The availability and water-resistant properties of copper have made it the first choice for most homebuilders for the past century. But as new materials are developed and the price of copper increases, copper piping is no longer the first choice for plumbing systems. A relative newcomer, PEX, is quickly gaining popularity as an excellent material for water supply systems.
Copper pipe plumbing systems The conventional copper pipe method of plumbing requires that the water supply line branch at the water heater, with the hot water line running through the water heater and then running in tandem with the cold water line throughout the home. Smaller-diameter lines branch off from the main lines to serve water-using fixtures and appliances. This plumbing system requires more fittings, and pipe sizes vary according to the loads they carry. With this system, the water supply is subject to pressure loss if several fixtures on a branch are used at once. Copper pipe also has to be run around obstacles, so more connections and intersections are required. Sweating and connecting the joints of a copper plumbing system takes time. Furthermore, after construction, the pipe connections are inaccessible. Since many of the joints are hidden behind finished walls, if there's a leak, the homeowner may not realize it until substantial water damage has been done to the home. Repairs from water leaks can be costly and difficult.
PEX plumbing systems A new method for water distribution in residential homes is gaining popularity among homebuilders. Known as PEX plumbing, cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is a flexible plastic piping composed of individual molecules that have been permanently linked together. Cross-linking the molecules creates a durable, stable plastic that can't be melted and reshaped. The unique features of PEX allow it to be configured in a number of different ways that can increase the performance and water savings associated with the plumbing system. Copper and CPVC are both reliable materials for plumbing systems; however, PEX tubing has several important advantages that make it the best choice for water distribution:
* PEX requires fewer connections. The tubing is available in long coils and is flexible enough to bend around obstructions without the use of connections. Fewer connections mean fewer opportunities for connections to leak and cause water damage.
* PEX is easier to install. Fewer fittings and a lightweight, flexible nature mean PEX tubing can be easily run around and through obstacles in the home and can be installed more quickly - resulting in lower labor costs.
* PEX reduces maintenance and repair costs. Service is relatively simple, since manifolds are corrosion-resistant and the connections are visible. PEX is plastic, so it doesn't experience pitting, either.
* PEX improves energy efficiency. It reduces the amount of heat lost from water in the piping, increases the response time of hot water, and decreases the amount of energy the water heater uses to deliver hot water.
Tags: PEX Water Pipe Plumbing Design PEX Tubing Plumbing Problem Toilet Plumbing Kitchen Plumbing PEX Fittings Toilet Installation Plumbing Fitting Plumbing Services Septic Systems Plumbing Repair Plastic Tubing Plastic Fabrication Water Leak
Water Filtration via Membrane Technology
Purification or Filtration by Membrane technology is primarily used in commercial and industrial applications. There are 4 membrane processes that operate by applying water pressure to a membrane; ie. Reverse Osmosis :
Microfiltration (MF) is a process where water is forced under pressure through a porous membrane. Membranes with a pore size of 0.45 Microns are normally used.This size is relatively large compared with the other membrane filtration processes. This process has not been generally applicable to drinking water treatment because it either does not remove substances that require removal from potable water, or the problem substances can be removed more economically using other processes. The primary use of MF is by industries to remove very fine particles from process water, as in electronic manufacturing. Additionly MF is often used as a pretreatment for other membrane processes. In particular, RO membranes are susceptible to clogging or filter binding unless the water being processed is already quite clean.
Ultrafiltration (UF) is a process that uses a membrane with a pore size generally below .1 microns. The smaller pore size is designed to remove colloids and substances that have larger molecules, which are called high-molecular-weight materials. UF membranes can be designed to pass material that weigh less than or equal to a certain molecular weight. This weight is called the molecular weight cutoff (MWC) of the membrane. Although UF does not generally work well for removal of salt or dissolved solids, it can be used effectively for removal or most organic chemicals.Again often used in combination with Reverse Osmosis as a very effective pretreatment.
Nanofiltration (NF) is a process using membranes that will reject even smaller molecules than UF. The process has been used primarily for water softening and reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). NF operates with less pressure that reverse osmosis and is still able to remove a significant proportion of inorganic and organic molecules.
Reverse Osmosis (RO) is a membrane process that has the highest rejection capability of all the membrane processes. These RO membranes have very low MWC pore size that can reject ions at very high rates, including chloride and sodium. Water from this process is very pure due to the high reject rates. R.O is used mainly in the water industry for desalinization of seawater because the costs are equitable with other processes for this service. The RO also works effectively on most organic chemicals, and radionuclides and microorganisms. Industrial water uses such as semiconductor manufacturing is also an important RO process. Unlike domestic R.O units industrial strength membranes are able to dump less than 30% of the flush water to waste. This reject water is very concentrated, difficult to eradicate and in the case of desalination it is often pumped deep offshore into drill holes.
Tags: Drinking Water Filtration Water Filtering Arsenic Removal Pure Water Treatment Treat Water Bottled Water Company Water Purifier System Water Purify Pond Filtration Water Cycle Water Coolers Filtration Systems Water Softeners Process Water Fountain
Microfiltration (MF) is a process where water is forced under pressure through a porous membrane. Membranes with a pore size of 0.45 Microns are normally used.This size is relatively large compared with the other membrane filtration processes. This process has not been generally applicable to drinking water treatment because it either does not remove substances that require removal from potable water, or the problem substances can be removed more economically using other processes. The primary use of MF is by industries to remove very fine particles from process water, as in electronic manufacturing. Additionly MF is often used as a pretreatment for other membrane processes. In particular, RO membranes are susceptible to clogging or filter binding unless the water being processed is already quite clean.
Ultrafiltration (UF) is a process that uses a membrane with a pore size generally below .1 microns. The smaller pore size is designed to remove colloids and substances that have larger molecules, which are called high-molecular-weight materials. UF membranes can be designed to pass material that weigh less than or equal to a certain molecular weight. This weight is called the molecular weight cutoff (MWC) of the membrane. Although UF does not generally work well for removal of salt or dissolved solids, it can be used effectively for removal or most organic chemicals.Again often used in combination with Reverse Osmosis as a very effective pretreatment.
Nanofiltration (NF) is a process using membranes that will reject even smaller molecules than UF. The process has been used primarily for water softening and reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). NF operates with less pressure that reverse osmosis and is still able to remove a significant proportion of inorganic and organic molecules.
Reverse Osmosis (RO) is a membrane process that has the highest rejection capability of all the membrane processes. These RO membranes have very low MWC pore size that can reject ions at very high rates, including chloride and sodium. Water from this process is very pure due to the high reject rates. R.O is used mainly in the water industry for desalinization of seawater because the costs are equitable with other processes for this service. The RO also works effectively on most organic chemicals, and radionuclides and microorganisms. Industrial water uses such as semiconductor manufacturing is also an important RO process. Unlike domestic R.O units industrial strength membranes are able to dump less than 30% of the flush water to waste. This reject water is very concentrated, difficult to eradicate and in the case of desalination it is often pumped deep offshore into drill holes.
Tags: Drinking Water Filtration Water Filtering Arsenic Removal Pure Water Treatment Treat Water Bottled Water Company Water Purifier System Water Purify Pond Filtration Water Cycle Water Coolers Filtration Systems Water Softeners Process Water Fountain
Home Plumbing Tips Helpful
When your faucet leaks, your toilet overflows or your sink is clogged, do you just shake your head in dismay and wait for a miracle? If yes, it is time that you learn a few handy skills so that you know what to do in case of a home plumbing emergency. Undergoing a plumbing course will equip you with knowledge on plumbing and give you intensive training on how to fix plumbing problems. But if that is not a priority for you right now, you will find these simple tips useful in case of home plumbing emergencies.
General tips
1. Be prepared. Don’t wait for a problem to occur before you go locate the main water supply switch or learn about how to unclog a drain or look for a plumber.
2. Don’t panic. Panicking will do you no good. Remain calm and always tell yourself that there’s always a solution to any home plumbing problem.
3. Know the plumbing system in your home. Educate your whole family about this. Locate and mark the main water supply shut off valves as well as other shut off valves for other fixtures.
4. Always have contact information of a professional ready. Even if you repair minor problems, it’s still best that you have the contact number and name of a professional plumber whom you can reach in case of a plumbing emergency. Put this information near the telephone or in a place, which you can easily get a hold of.
5. Maintenance and care is a good preventive measure for plumbing problems. For example, once a week, pour boiling water down the drain to prevent grease and debris build-up, which can lead to clogs.
Problems and solutions There are various home plumbing problems but here are few of the most common ones:
1. Clogged drain. Use a plunger to rid of the clog. If this does not work, opt to use a plumber’s snake. You can also utilize drain cleaners but just be careful when using this because some contain strong chemicals that can damage the pipes. Consult with the manufacturer’s instructions before you pour a drain cleaner into your sink.
2. Toilet that continuously run. This is typically caused by a float rising too high. To fix this, bend the rod slightly downward to lower the float ball. Check the tank flapper and the other toilet components because this problem can also be caused by worn out parts. You may need to clean, adjust or replace these parts.
3. Stuck faucets. This problem can be solved by removing mineral deposits that are clogged into the faucet. You may also apply a thin coating of FSA-approved silicone grease to smoothen the faucet. Never use petroleum jelly.
4. Frozen pipes. Thaw frozen pipes using a hair dryer or towels dipped in hot water. Never expose it to direct heat. It is crucial that you are able to heat it slowly to prevent the pipe from breaking down. Home plumbing problems are not that hard to solve if you have the sufficient knowledge and skills on plumbing. But remember, if you were even just a little doubtful on your capability to fix a particular problem, it would be wiser to hire professional help. It’s always better safe than sorry.
Tags: Home Furnishings Repair Wiring Remodeling Ranch House Home Accents Home Office Install Wiring Electrical Repairs Home Garden Remodeling Home Repairs Plumbing Home Lighting Home Products Home Rental Home Automation
General tips
1. Be prepared. Don’t wait for a problem to occur before you go locate the main water supply switch or learn about how to unclog a drain or look for a plumber.
2. Don’t panic. Panicking will do you no good. Remain calm and always tell yourself that there’s always a solution to any home plumbing problem.
3. Know the plumbing system in your home. Educate your whole family about this. Locate and mark the main water supply shut off valves as well as other shut off valves for other fixtures.
4. Always have contact information of a professional ready. Even if you repair minor problems, it’s still best that you have the contact number and name of a professional plumber whom you can reach in case of a plumbing emergency. Put this information near the telephone or in a place, which you can easily get a hold of.
5. Maintenance and care is a good preventive measure for plumbing problems. For example, once a week, pour boiling water down the drain to prevent grease and debris build-up, which can lead to clogs.
Problems and solutions There are various home plumbing problems but here are few of the most common ones:
1. Clogged drain. Use a plunger to rid of the clog. If this does not work, opt to use a plumber’s snake. You can also utilize drain cleaners but just be careful when using this because some contain strong chemicals that can damage the pipes. Consult with the manufacturer’s instructions before you pour a drain cleaner into your sink.
2. Toilet that continuously run. This is typically caused by a float rising too high. To fix this, bend the rod slightly downward to lower the float ball. Check the tank flapper and the other toilet components because this problem can also be caused by worn out parts. You may need to clean, adjust or replace these parts.
3. Stuck faucets. This problem can be solved by removing mineral deposits that are clogged into the faucet. You may also apply a thin coating of FSA-approved silicone grease to smoothen the faucet. Never use petroleum jelly.
4. Frozen pipes. Thaw frozen pipes using a hair dryer or towels dipped in hot water. Never expose it to direct heat. It is crucial that you are able to heat it slowly to prevent the pipe from breaking down. Home plumbing problems are not that hard to solve if you have the sufficient knowledge and skills on plumbing. But remember, if you were even just a little doubtful on your capability to fix a particular problem, it would be wiser to hire professional help. It’s always better safe than sorry.
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Tankless Water Heating New Revolution
Tankless Water Heaters have been in the market for almost 40 years, yet they are only beginning to get the popularity that they deserve. Chances are you have heard of them, or at least seen the TV commercial. If not, consider this your introduction to "on Demand" hot water heaters. Tankless water heaters are a relatively new and efficient technology used to heat water. Traditional hot water heaters, have a disadvantage when it comes to operating, especially in cold climates. This is know as "standby heat loss". Basically a standard water heater looses heat through the walls of its tank. Every hot water heater is insulated against heat loss. Most of them contain a large copper water tank, surrounded by fiberglass insulation. but the even the best insulation allow a few degrees each hour to escape. That shiny white metal surface you see is only part of a much more complex machine.
Water heaters have a thermostat which tells it when to turn on or off, thereby maintaining a constant temperature, which you set. And for this reason, it has to heat and reheat the water to maintain it at a constant temperature. This can go on while you're sleeping, while you're at work, or just not home. In effect you are paying to heat up water that your are not going to use until later. This means you are paying for heat that just escapes into the environment. (This waste of energy can also contribute to global warming.) This is where tankless water heaters come in. In most cases tankless water heaters are compact, electric or gas powered, and Energy efficient. As opposed to standard water heaters, tankless systems only heat water as it is being used, or when the tap is turned on. Thus, they are called "On Demand" hot water heaters. Tankless water heaters can be very efficient, especially in cold climates, since they do not loose heat, sometimes up to 60% over regular models. Ben Townsend is currently a full time student and currently divides his extra time among many different hobbies, including writing and web building. For more information on this specific article you can find additional info by visiting his website at Tankless water heaters.
Tags: Water Heater Company Solar Pool Heaters Electric Central Heating Solar Hot Water Tank Solar Collectors Solar Panels Cells Solar Water Heating Systems Solar Thermal Oil Heating Heater Solar Lighting Solar Heating for Swimming Pools Solar Lights Cost Effective Heating Coils
Water heaters have a thermostat which tells it when to turn on or off, thereby maintaining a constant temperature, which you set. And for this reason, it has to heat and reheat the water to maintain it at a constant temperature. This can go on while you're sleeping, while you're at work, or just not home. In effect you are paying to heat up water that your are not going to use until later. This means you are paying for heat that just escapes into the environment. (This waste of energy can also contribute to global warming.) This is where tankless water heaters come in. In most cases tankless water heaters are compact, electric or gas powered, and Energy efficient. As opposed to standard water heaters, tankless systems only heat water as it is being used, or when the tap is turned on. Thus, they are called "On Demand" hot water heaters. Tankless water heaters can be very efficient, especially in cold climates, since they do not loose heat, sometimes up to 60% over regular models. Ben Townsend is currently a full time student and currently divides his extra time among many different hobbies, including writing and web building. For more information on this specific article you can find additional info by visiting his website at Tankless water heaters.
Tags: Water Heater Company Solar Pool Heaters Electric Central Heating Solar Hot Water Tank Solar Collectors Solar Panels Cells Solar Water Heating Systems Solar Thermal Oil Heating Heater Solar Lighting Solar Heating for Swimming Pools Solar Lights Cost Effective Heating Coils
Septic Tanks
A perk test is a soil test that determines if the ground is compatible, the kind of septic tank needed and where it is to be located. The ground compatibility is important so field lines can drain liquid waste without causing quick sand or sink holes. Solid waste settles to the bottom of the septic tank while only liquid waste is drained through the field lines. Field line drainage is of no harm to the environment, animals or plants. Field line drainage will reduce cost of watering your garden, only if the garden is planted over the field lines. As water drains from the field lines plant and flower roots will soak up the water, thus actually promoting plant growth. There are three important Q/A's to ensure a smooth septic tank installation project.
1. Where will the system be located?
A. The site and slope conditions, and distance from many features determines where the system must be located. Some common distances for a septic system would be a minimum of 50 feet from a well, lake, or river; 10 feet from a house, 5 feet from your property line and 6 feet from an old septic system. NOTE: This varies from state, county and city laws.
2. How large of a system will be required?
A. This is determined by two factors: How many bedrooms in the residence, and the soil conditions the system will be installed in. Now days all septic tanks are at least 1000 gallons. Note: This also varies from state, county and city laws.
3. How much will it coast?
A. Depending on size it will be about $2000-$7000 not including taxes and fees. After a septic tank is installed the solid waste will need to be cleaned "pumped" some times only every 5-10 years. This cost about $100-$500. In the long-run septic tanks can save you money. Also one last thing: bio-degradable waste only which will give your septic tank longer life. Be nice to your septic tank it will be nice to you!
Tags:Concrete Septic Tank Septic System Sewer Drain Sewage Systems Septic Solutions Sewer Truck Septic Drain Field Aerobic Tank Sewage Treatment Sewage Problem Septic Aeration Tank Design Home Septic Aerobic Septic Sewer Pipe
1. Where will the system be located?
A. The site and slope conditions, and distance from many features determines where the system must be located. Some common distances for a septic system would be a minimum of 50 feet from a well, lake, or river; 10 feet from a house, 5 feet from your property line and 6 feet from an old septic system. NOTE: This varies from state, county and city laws.
2. How large of a system will be required?
A. This is determined by two factors: How many bedrooms in the residence, and the soil conditions the system will be installed in. Now days all septic tanks are at least 1000 gallons. Note: This also varies from state, county and city laws.
3. How much will it coast?
A. Depending on size it will be about $2000-$7000 not including taxes and fees. After a septic tank is installed the solid waste will need to be cleaned "pumped" some times only every 5-10 years. This cost about $100-$500. In the long-run septic tanks can save you money. Also one last thing: bio-degradable waste only which will give your septic tank longer life. Be nice to your septic tank it will be nice to you!
Tags:Concrete Septic Tank Septic System Sewer Drain Sewage Systems Septic Solutions Sewer Truck Septic Drain Field Aerobic Tank Sewage Treatment Sewage Problem Septic Aeration Tank Design Home Septic Aerobic Septic Sewer Pipe
Tankless Water Heaters Benefits
When compared to traditional tanks, tankless water heaters have numerous benefits. Tankless water heaters require less room, last longer, save money, and provide an endless supply of hot water. Traditional tank style water heaters come in a large variety of sizes and shapes, but if you are using one for your entire home, you can guarantee that it will be quite a bit larger than a tankless water heater. Electric tankless water heaters are usually about the size of a briefcase, while their gas counterparts are approximately the size of a suitcase. With either power source, you are usually looking at saving a considerable amount of space if replacing a traditional tank. In the past, traditional tank water heaters were built to last. It wouldn't be unusual for a water heater to last twenty years with proper maintenance. Most of the traditional tanks on the market today are lucky if they last the average 8 - 12 years. Due to their lack of water storage, tankless water heaters often last quite a bit longer. Gas powered units will usually last about 15 - 20 years, while their electric counterparts will last 30 - 40 years.
One of the biggest benefits of tankless water heaters is financial. Although tankless usually cost slightly more to purchase than a traditional tank, they quickly make this back and more with their lower operating costs. Compared to a traditional electric tank water heater, a tankless will usually save a homeowner 40 - 50 percent on their water heating bill. When taken over their longer lifespan this savings can add up to a substantial amount. Larger families are often most impressed with a tankless water heaters ability to provide an endless stream of hot water. In most homes with a traditional tank, the third person to take a shower in the morning either has a shortened or a cold shower as the tank has been depleted and must get up to temperature again. Since tankless water heaters heat the water as it flows through, you can run it for as long as you like, and never have the water go cold. With their smaller size, longer lifespan, greater efficiency, and ability to produce endless amounts of hot water, tankless water heaters offer a great many benefits over traditional tank water heaters.
Tags:Gas Hot Water Heater Electric Tankless Water Heater Outdoor Water Fountains Solar Water Heating Systems Water Softeners Water Retention Solar Heater Water Filters Water Turtles Water Cycle Penta Water Rocket Water Pump Water Conditioner Salt Water Fish
One of the biggest benefits of tankless water heaters is financial. Although tankless usually cost slightly more to purchase than a traditional tank, they quickly make this back and more with their lower operating costs. Compared to a traditional electric tank water heater, a tankless will usually save a homeowner 40 - 50 percent on their water heating bill. When taken over their longer lifespan this savings can add up to a substantial amount. Larger families are often most impressed with a tankless water heaters ability to provide an endless stream of hot water. In most homes with a traditional tank, the third person to take a shower in the morning either has a shortened or a cold shower as the tank has been depleted and must get up to temperature again. Since tankless water heaters heat the water as it flows through, you can run it for as long as you like, and never have the water go cold. With their smaller size, longer lifespan, greater efficiency, and ability to produce endless amounts of hot water, tankless water heaters offer a great many benefits over traditional tank water heaters.
Tags:Gas Hot Water Heater Electric Tankless Water Heater Outdoor Water Fountains Solar Water Heating Systems Water Softeners Water Retention Solar Heater Water Filters Water Turtles Water Cycle Penta Water Rocket Water Pump Water Conditioner Salt Water Fish
Septic Tank Additive That Works
There are many products on the Internet that claim they improve Septic Tank operation. I, like most owners of homes with Septic Tank Sewer Systems or cesspools, have tried many products to improve the systems operation, lengthen pumping cycles, and lengthen the life of the drainage fields. Some help, some are useless, some are too expensive for the good they do. I have found Bio-R, it is reasonably priced. I flush Bio-R down one of my commodes once a month. Bio-R really does make the septic tank and grey-water reuse system work odor free. By adding this product, which is a specially blended formula in a 2-ounce packet of approximately 300 million bacterial organisms, to my system Bio-R stimulates the biological activity present in my system to eliminate and reduce those problematic areas, resulting in tremendous savings for me.
In researching Bio-R I found it had been in use for many years in the treatment of drains, waste-water, grey-water, reuse, and back-water recycle. Rod Pennington who has worked and had much experience in the waste-water industry developed it. Most of its applications have been directed towards the safe, cost efficient and environmentally friendly elimination or reduction of odors, greases, solids, sludge and related disposal expenses within waste-water systems. The technology can be used to treat tremendous amounts of waste-water with only ounces of media. As a satisfied customer and user for the last five years, I want to spread the word about Bio-R to all homeowners with septic tanks or cesspools, and the folks that treat waste-water in your hometown.
Tags: Septic Tank Info Septic System Aerobic Tank Effluent Treatment Septic Solutions Aerobic Septic Drain Field Septic Aeration Home Septic Aeration System Septic Air Residential Septic Help Residential Wastewater Centrifugal Pump
In researching Bio-R I found it had been in use for many years in the treatment of drains, waste-water, grey-water, reuse, and back-water recycle. Rod Pennington who has worked and had much experience in the waste-water industry developed it. Most of its applications have been directed towards the safe, cost efficient and environmentally friendly elimination or reduction of odors, greases, solids, sludge and related disposal expenses within waste-water systems. The technology can be used to treat tremendous amounts of waste-water with only ounces of media. As a satisfied customer and user for the last five years, I want to spread the word about Bio-R to all homeowners with septic tanks or cesspools, and the folks that treat waste-water in your hometown.
Tags: Septic Tank Info Septic System Aerobic Tank Effluent Treatment Septic Solutions Aerobic Septic Drain Field Septic Aeration Home Septic Aeration System Septic Air Residential Septic Help Residential Wastewater Centrifugal Pump
Water Heater Maintenance Means Lower Utility Bills
Paying more than you have to for hot water is the same as pouring energy dollars down the sink. In this article, you'll find hands-on advice about how to maintain your water heater for no cost, meaning a more economical and ecological way of heating water. Over time, you can expect your energy savings will more than repay your initial labor investment.
Water Heater Maintenance Keeping your water heater free of buildup and sediment will make it work more efficiently, and this is especially important if you live in an area with hard water. Because hard water is laden with minerals, these can build up in your heater and reduce its efficiency. Keeping your water temperature below 120 degrees will slow sediment accumulation, and the water will be typically hot enough for most household purposes (unless you love a scalding shower). Dishwashers often require hotter water, but most contemporary dishwashers come with their own internal heaters that can raise the temperature of the water to the 140 degrees they need.
Eliminating Sediment To drain sediment out of your water heater, start by turning off the water supply to the heater at the cold water intake or at your home's main shut-off valve. If you have a gas-fired heater, turn the temperature knob all the way to OFF and then close the gas supply valve to the gas line. If you have an electric water heater, simply turn off the electricity at the main service panel. Next, attach a length of garden hose to the heater's drain valve and run it to a floor drain in your basement or outside (but below the level of the heater). If you don't have a long enough hose, place a bucket or tub under the drain, but be prepared to stop and go as you empty the buckets. Open the heater's drain and a close faucet for hot water to let air into your water system. The water will begin coming out of the valve. Once the water starts running clear, you can close the valve. If the water still runs cloudy for an extended period of time, turn on the supply valve for the cold water to flush out any remaining sediment. When you're done, close the drain valve and shut off the nearby hot water faucet. If you haven't done so already, reopen the cold water supply valve to refill the tank. Once the tank is full and you can no longer hear water running into it, turn on the power by either restoring electric power or opening the gas line and reigniting the pilot light. To keep sediment at bay, set your thermostat to below 120 degrees.
Tags: Gas Hot Water Heater Outdoor Water Fountains Solar Water Heater Price Solar Heating Electric Water Heater Manufacturer Water Softeners Water Retention Water Filters Water Turtles Water Cycle Penta Water Rocket Water Pump Water Conditioner Salt Water Fish
Water Heater Maintenance Keeping your water heater free of buildup and sediment will make it work more efficiently, and this is especially important if you live in an area with hard water. Because hard water is laden with minerals, these can build up in your heater and reduce its efficiency. Keeping your water temperature below 120 degrees will slow sediment accumulation, and the water will be typically hot enough for most household purposes (unless you love a scalding shower). Dishwashers often require hotter water, but most contemporary dishwashers come with their own internal heaters that can raise the temperature of the water to the 140 degrees they need.
Eliminating Sediment To drain sediment out of your water heater, start by turning off the water supply to the heater at the cold water intake or at your home's main shut-off valve. If you have a gas-fired heater, turn the temperature knob all the way to OFF and then close the gas supply valve to the gas line. If you have an electric water heater, simply turn off the electricity at the main service panel. Next, attach a length of garden hose to the heater's drain valve and run it to a floor drain in your basement or outside (but below the level of the heater). If you don't have a long enough hose, place a bucket or tub under the drain, but be prepared to stop and go as you empty the buckets. Open the heater's drain and a close faucet for hot water to let air into your water system. The water will begin coming out of the valve. Once the water starts running clear, you can close the valve. If the water still runs cloudy for an extended period of time, turn on the supply valve for the cold water to flush out any remaining sediment. When you're done, close the drain valve and shut off the nearby hot water faucet. If you haven't done so already, reopen the cold water supply valve to refill the tank. Once the tank is full and you can no longer hear water running into it, turn on the power by either restoring electric power or opening the gas line and reigniting the pilot light. To keep sediment at bay, set your thermostat to below 120 degrees.
Tags: Gas Hot Water Heater Outdoor Water Fountains Solar Water Heater Price Solar Heating Electric Water Heater Manufacturer Water Softeners Water Retention Water Filters Water Turtles Water Cycle Penta Water Rocket Water Pump Water Conditioner Salt Water Fish
Plumbing DIY Replacing Taps
Plumbing is an aspect of home improvement that often comes about without choice. It is important to take care of the plumbing of your property in order to avoid emergency situations and to ensure that you are getting the best from your plumbing system. When it comes to replacing taps it can often be more complex than you may realise at first. Replacing taps can either be required as part of the installation of a new bath/basin or because your old taps have worn down. You may, however, just wish to replace your taps simply on a more cosmetic basis.
It is important to understand how many 'holes' your sink has when it comes to changing your taps. The amount of holes will determine whether you can install two separate taps or whether you will have just the one serving both your hot and cold needs. If there is one hole you are restricted to the one tap and you will require a mono-bloc mixer when it comes to replacing your taps. With one hole you will have two diameter pipes coming out of the hole, one for hot and one for cold. It there are, however, two holes you are able to fit two separate taps to your sink, giving you a tap for hot water and a tap for cold water. Ok now you have some basics about what to look for in your pipe work we can move onto the removal of your old taps. The first thing you need to ensure you do is to disconnect the water supply and then turn your taps on fully to drain any water left in your system. The way in which you cut off your water supply depends on what sort of water supply you are dealing with. If connected to the mains you should turn off your indoor stop valve. If your hot and cold taps feed off pipes from a cistern you should have a gate valve/mini stopcock available to turn off. The stop valve can be found alongside the cold water tank. You should then use a wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut, which connects the supply pipes to the taps. You will probably experience some water coming from the pipes at this point so ensure that you have a cloth ready then loosen the nut that is holding the taps in place and remove them from the sink. You then need to clean the area the taps fit into as well as replace any old sealing compound.
Before you go ahead and fit your new taps you need to compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If they are longer then you will need a shank adapter in order to make them fit. When it comes to actually fitting your new taps you have to check to see if the tails of the new taps are plastic. If not a connector is required to prevent damage. One end of the connector fits onto the tail and the other provides a connection to existing pipes. To fit the taps you should position the tap in the mounting hole in the basin, ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink and when the tap is securely in place the supply pipes can be connected. When your taps are firmly in place and have been securely connected to the pipes you can then turn your water supply back on. Once your water is on you should check for any leaks; if any appear they can normally be resolved by tightening your joins.
Tags:Toilet Repairs Leak Sealing Plumbing Store Clogged Drains Bathroom Drain Bathtub Drains Toilet Plumbing Design Toilet Leaks Leaky Faucet Kitchen Plumbing Sink Repair Leaking Toilet Plumbing Repairs Leak Repair
It is important to understand how many 'holes' your sink has when it comes to changing your taps. The amount of holes will determine whether you can install two separate taps or whether you will have just the one serving both your hot and cold needs. If there is one hole you are restricted to the one tap and you will require a mono-bloc mixer when it comes to replacing your taps. With one hole you will have two diameter pipes coming out of the hole, one for hot and one for cold. It there are, however, two holes you are able to fit two separate taps to your sink, giving you a tap for hot water and a tap for cold water. Ok now you have some basics about what to look for in your pipe work we can move onto the removal of your old taps. The first thing you need to ensure you do is to disconnect the water supply and then turn your taps on fully to drain any water left in your system. The way in which you cut off your water supply depends on what sort of water supply you are dealing with. If connected to the mains you should turn off your indoor stop valve. If your hot and cold taps feed off pipes from a cistern you should have a gate valve/mini stopcock available to turn off. The stop valve can be found alongside the cold water tank. You should then use a wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut, which connects the supply pipes to the taps. You will probably experience some water coming from the pipes at this point so ensure that you have a cloth ready then loosen the nut that is holding the taps in place and remove them from the sink. You then need to clean the area the taps fit into as well as replace any old sealing compound.
Before you go ahead and fit your new taps you need to compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If they are longer then you will need a shank adapter in order to make them fit. When it comes to actually fitting your new taps you have to check to see if the tails of the new taps are plastic. If not a connector is required to prevent damage. One end of the connector fits onto the tail and the other provides a connection to existing pipes. To fit the taps you should position the tap in the mounting hole in the basin, ensuring that the washers are in place between the tap and the sink and when the tap is securely in place the supply pipes can be connected. When your taps are firmly in place and have been securely connected to the pipes you can then turn your water supply back on. Once your water is on you should check for any leaks; if any appear they can normally be resolved by tightening your joins.
Tags:Toilet Repairs Leak Sealing Plumbing Store Clogged Drains Bathroom Drain Bathtub Drains Toilet Plumbing Design Toilet Leaks Leaky Faucet Kitchen Plumbing Sink Repair Leaking Toilet Plumbing Repairs Leak Repair
Frozen Water Lines One Way To Deal With
We live out in the country but this story could just as easily happen to someone in the city. After 25 years of living in the same location, our water line froze on us this winter. We had a very early start to winter this year. In November the temperatures got down to single digits and we didn't have any snow. Had we had snow in combination with the cold temperatures, it probably wouldn't have been so bad. The snow tends to act as an insulator and keeps the cold from driving down into the ground. Where we live, in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of Northern New Mexico, the frost line is down to about 3 ft. The conventional wisdom has always been that if your pipes are at least 3 feet deep, then they won't freeze. But, since we didn't have the snow covering the ground and, I'm thinking, since our pipes are buried underneath an area where the water often runs during run-off (out here, we call these little stream beds arroyos), there's a good chance that several inches or more of protective dirt has been washed away over time. Doesn't look like the ground level has dropped much, but it's hard to remember over time just what the ground looked like 25 years ago!
Bottom line is, our pipes froze and they froze hard. Our water line travels at least 700 feet from the well house to our home on top of the hill. By the time our line froze, we did have snow covering the ground and that made it even more difficult to deal with. I mean, where does one start when one has 700 feet of water line underground? Digging it up just didn't seem like an option. Luckily there is only my wife and I and our two dogs so we decided we would just wait it out until the pipes thawed. Don't get me wrong. I didn't just give up. I was pro-active. I disconnected the main water line in the house, installed a union (plumbing device which allows for two pieces of pipe to be taken apart and put back together) in-line and tried running hot water back down the line - even with a small pump this didn't work, couldn't get it to push against the air block - and attached an air compressor to the line to try to blow it back out. This actually worked at one point. We had water for 4 days until we left one evening and didn't think to let the water drip to prevent another freezing! The 2nd time it froze is when we had the solid freeze that lasted for about 6 weeks and wouldn't budge, no matter what we did.
Even with our resolve to not let this situation get us down, after about a week and a half, I started to think "outside the box." It occurred to me that since we had a water hydrant down at the bottom of the driveway, just 250 feet away, that I might be able to use that to our advantage. I came up with the idea of running a hose from the hydrant up to the outside water faucet on the side of the house. Seemed reasonable enough to me, so after getting the correct adapters, I was able to do just that. During the day, as long as the temperatures were above 28 degrees or so, I was able to run the water from the hydrant up the hill and into the house. Since the outside faucet was right about where the main water line came in, the whole house system, including the hot water heater, became charged. All right! Water! At night, just as the temperatures were dropping way back down, I would have to shut down the system and drain the hoses and then, the next day, when the temperatures got back up to 28 degrees or better, I would hook the system back up. I think this system would work in a pinch in the city or suburbs where the houses are close together. One would simply hook their hose to a neighbor's faucet until such time as the water line thawed or was other wise corrected. I can't tell you how much this helped to ease what otherwise would have been a burden. We were able to shower, run the dishwasher, flush the toilet, do laundry and fill up bottles of drinking water, as long as we did all of the above before dark or when the temperatures plummeted. Luckily for us, February was rather mild and we were able to have many days that worked in our favor. But, it wasn't until almost the end of February that we had enough mild weather for the line to thaw.
Tags: Gas Hot Water Heater Ductile Iron Pipe Copper Water Pipe Water Meter Piping Pipe Fittings Drainage Pipe Plumbing Problems Copper Tube Elbow Fitting Plumbing Companies Potable Water Tubing Plumbing Leak High Pressure Valve
Bottom line is, our pipes froze and they froze hard. Our water line travels at least 700 feet from the well house to our home on top of the hill. By the time our line froze, we did have snow covering the ground and that made it even more difficult to deal with. I mean, where does one start when one has 700 feet of water line underground? Digging it up just didn't seem like an option. Luckily there is only my wife and I and our two dogs so we decided we would just wait it out until the pipes thawed. Don't get me wrong. I didn't just give up. I was pro-active. I disconnected the main water line in the house, installed a union (plumbing device which allows for two pieces of pipe to be taken apart and put back together) in-line and tried running hot water back down the line - even with a small pump this didn't work, couldn't get it to push against the air block - and attached an air compressor to the line to try to blow it back out. This actually worked at one point. We had water for 4 days until we left one evening and didn't think to let the water drip to prevent another freezing! The 2nd time it froze is when we had the solid freeze that lasted for about 6 weeks and wouldn't budge, no matter what we did.
Even with our resolve to not let this situation get us down, after about a week and a half, I started to think "outside the box." It occurred to me that since we had a water hydrant down at the bottom of the driveway, just 250 feet away, that I might be able to use that to our advantage. I came up with the idea of running a hose from the hydrant up to the outside water faucet on the side of the house. Seemed reasonable enough to me, so after getting the correct adapters, I was able to do just that. During the day, as long as the temperatures were above 28 degrees or so, I was able to run the water from the hydrant up the hill and into the house. Since the outside faucet was right about where the main water line came in, the whole house system, including the hot water heater, became charged. All right! Water! At night, just as the temperatures were dropping way back down, I would have to shut down the system and drain the hoses and then, the next day, when the temperatures got back up to 28 degrees or better, I would hook the system back up. I think this system would work in a pinch in the city or suburbs where the houses are close together. One would simply hook their hose to a neighbor's faucet until such time as the water line thawed or was other wise corrected. I can't tell you how much this helped to ease what otherwise would have been a burden. We were able to shower, run the dishwasher, flush the toilet, do laundry and fill up bottles of drinking water, as long as we did all of the above before dark or when the temperatures plummeted. Luckily for us, February was rather mild and we were able to have many days that worked in our favor. But, it wasn't until almost the end of February that we had enough mild weather for the line to thaw.
Tags: Gas Hot Water Heater Ductile Iron Pipe Copper Water Pipe Water Meter Piping Pipe Fittings Drainage Pipe Plumbing Problems Copper Tube Elbow Fitting Plumbing Companies Potable Water Tubing Plumbing Leak High Pressure Valve
Plumbing Pipes And Practical Know How
Most people panic when there is a plumbing emergency or general repair that needs to be done. This panic is unnecessary if you have the practical plumbing knowledge. Getting help can be obtained in various ways it can be a phone call to a plumber for a fee or help from a do it yourself book if you are the handyman type or if your lucky you will have a friendly neighborhood plumbing/hardware store that can assist you with all your repair needs.
Water Leaks 101 If at any point in time you notice water in areas that water does not belong the first and most important thing to do is turn off the main valve. This is located at meter or in your home where the water line comes into the house. If you do not know where this is start by looking in your crawl space or basement. Once water has been shut off locate cause of leak determine diameter of pipe and material the pipe is made of ie copper or plastic or steel. You can remove a part of this to take with you if need be. Match up pipe or fittings needed to repair leak. If it is a threaded steel connection make sure you put thread seal on all threaded connections and tighten as snug as you can get it. This would be done by using pipe wrench or channel lock style pliers. If it is a copper connection you can use solder fittings or compression style fittings ( the easiest style for a novice). There are 3 types of plastic pipes used PVC, CPVC, and PEX. PVC and CPVC can be glued together with appropriate solvent. PEX pipe is either clamped or a grabber style fitting is used.
Clogged or Slow Drains If drain is moving slow or completely clogged cleaners are not always a great solution. If the drain is slow moving a cleaner may help to make move freely. If it is completely stopped up a snake should be used to remove obstruction. If your home has old steal drain lines you might be fighting a loosing battle. I suggest to cut out and remove steel pipe and replace with PVC. Generally, the vertical pipes do not build up the same amount of debris or sludge the same as the horizontal pipes. If you are making a transition from steel to plastic make sure you use a approved coupling to make the transition. If it is a PVC to PVC connection use appropriate solvent.
That Leaky faucet When your faucet develops a leak it is important to fix as soon as possible to save extra damage to the part from forcing it to shut off. First thing to do is to shut water off to faucet . Shut off valves are located below sink. Remove handle then locate the nut that holds the faucet stem in faucet body, use wrench to remove take to local plumbing shop or hardware store to match replacement gaskets or sometimes the complete stem. If faucet is not able to be repaired and you decide to replace it is important that you purchase a new faucet from a reputable manufacturer.
Toilet Woes If toilet is leaking at the base it could be a wax seal needs to be replaced, or the mounting flange may be cracked. If it takes a long time for the tank to refill after you flush it is the ball cock that has failed. Sometimes this can be repaired with a replacement gasket if parts are not available replace complete ball cock. This is also the solution if it will not shut off. If you hear your toilet refill without flushing it the flapper assembly needs to be replaced.* there are lots of different style flappers used make sure you take your old one with you to match.
Tags: Toilet Repairs Leak Sealing Plumbing Store Clogged Drains Toilet Plumbing Bathroom Drain Plumbing Design Bathtub Drains Kitchen Plumbing Toilet Leaks Leaky Faucet Sink Repair Leaking Toilet Plumbing Repairs Plumbing Problem
Water Leaks 101 If at any point in time you notice water in areas that water does not belong the first and most important thing to do is turn off the main valve. This is located at meter or in your home where the water line comes into the house. If you do not know where this is start by looking in your crawl space or basement. Once water has been shut off locate cause of leak determine diameter of pipe and material the pipe is made of ie copper or plastic or steel. You can remove a part of this to take with you if need be. Match up pipe or fittings needed to repair leak. If it is a threaded steel connection make sure you put thread seal on all threaded connections and tighten as snug as you can get it. This would be done by using pipe wrench or channel lock style pliers. If it is a copper connection you can use solder fittings or compression style fittings ( the easiest style for a novice). There are 3 types of plastic pipes used PVC, CPVC, and PEX. PVC and CPVC can be glued together with appropriate solvent. PEX pipe is either clamped or a grabber style fitting is used.
Clogged or Slow Drains If drain is moving slow or completely clogged cleaners are not always a great solution. If the drain is slow moving a cleaner may help to make move freely. If it is completely stopped up a snake should be used to remove obstruction. If your home has old steal drain lines you might be fighting a loosing battle. I suggest to cut out and remove steel pipe and replace with PVC. Generally, the vertical pipes do not build up the same amount of debris or sludge the same as the horizontal pipes. If you are making a transition from steel to plastic make sure you use a approved coupling to make the transition. If it is a PVC to PVC connection use appropriate solvent.
That Leaky faucet When your faucet develops a leak it is important to fix as soon as possible to save extra damage to the part from forcing it to shut off. First thing to do is to shut water off to faucet . Shut off valves are located below sink. Remove handle then locate the nut that holds the faucet stem in faucet body, use wrench to remove take to local plumbing shop or hardware store to match replacement gaskets or sometimes the complete stem. If faucet is not able to be repaired and you decide to replace it is important that you purchase a new faucet from a reputable manufacturer.
Toilet Woes If toilet is leaking at the base it could be a wax seal needs to be replaced, or the mounting flange may be cracked. If it takes a long time for the tank to refill after you flush it is the ball cock that has failed. Sometimes this can be repaired with a replacement gasket if parts are not available replace complete ball cock. This is also the solution if it will not shut off. If you hear your toilet refill without flushing it the flapper assembly needs to be replaced.* there are lots of different style flappers used make sure you take your old one with you to match.
Tags: Toilet Repairs Leak Sealing Plumbing Store Clogged Drains Toilet Plumbing Bathroom Drain Plumbing Design Bathtub Drains Kitchen Plumbing Toilet Leaks Leaky Faucet Sink Repair Leaking Toilet Plumbing Repairs Plumbing Problem
Water Faucet Fix A Leaking Outside
Sometimes you run across a leaking spicket that is on the outside of the house. If you live in the city, this could increase your water bill not by much but still an increase. If you live out in the country this might increase the electric bill because the well keeps on running to provide that water. Depending on the type of spicket that you have will depend on the fix. If you have a standard compression spicket, which usually has the round metal handle on it, the leak may be coming from the handle stem, if so all you have to do it tighten the packing nut that is buy the handle. To do this just take a wrench and tight the packing nut around the stem. Now if that doesn't fix it, and the handle is still leaking, or that the leak is coming from the spot, we are going to have to take the take the spicket apart. To do this we want to start off by shutting off the water to the spicket. This is done usually in the basement or crawl space. Now if your house is on a concrete slab there is one of two things you can do. One is shut the water main off to the entire house, or if you are lucky and the plumbers installed a shut off for that spicket, which they most likely didn't do, you can turn that off. The same goes if you don't have a shut off in the basement for the spicket, you have to shut off the main to the house. Now the main to the house will have a large meter on it known as, you got it the water meter. There will be some sort of valve near it. Warning! DON'T SHUT THE VALVE OFF THAT GOES INTO THE METER. This will get you into a lot of trouble it tampered with. The valve that we want is on the out of the water meter. With the water shut off, its time to get to work. Now go outside and turn and open the valve to release and water that is in the pipes from the inside valve to the spicket. If you had to shut the main off go every fixture in the house and open them to release the water and the go to the spicket and open it. This will remove any water from the house and then you don't have to work with water coming at you by surprise. Now, if the stem is leaking we are going to want to remove that part from the spicket. To do that, we are going to need an adjustable wrench. Behind that packing nut there is a spot that you can place an adjustable wrench and unscrew the assembly. Completely unscrew that packing assembly and remove it from the spicket. Now we are going to want to get to the packing nut washer. To do this we need to unscrew the handle on the assembly. There should be a nut or screw on top of the handle that you can unscrew. Unscrew it and remove the handle.
Next you are going to want to unscrew and remove the packing nut. Inside the nut you are going to find some type of washer, either a Rubber packing washer or graphite packing string. Remove either and replace with a new matching one. Now if you can't find a matching washer for the packing nut, you can use graphite sting. Wrap the string around the stem and the push the packing washer over it and tighten it down. You can do this by using a flat blade screw driver. The reverse the steps, first by reinstalling the packing nut, put the handle on the assembly, put the assembly back in to the spicket, and tighten. Now if the spicket was leaking from the spout, all beginning steps are the same to get the assembly out of the spicket. Then you are going to want to replace the compression washer that is on the bottom of the assembly. Unscrew the nut that holds it in place and replace the washer with it exact match size and shape. Re-screw the screw back on to the assembly to hold the washer. Then reinstall the assembly back into the spicket. With the spicket reinstalled it is safe to turn the water back on. Make sure that all the faucets in the house that you opened are closed first.
Tags: Dispenser Water Faucets Water Purifier System Pure Water Filter Water Bottles Water Distillers Water Meter Water Purify Water Tower Water Store Water Fountains Water Bottling Water Mattress Water Softeners Best Drinking Water
Next you are going to want to unscrew and remove the packing nut. Inside the nut you are going to find some type of washer, either a Rubber packing washer or graphite packing string. Remove either and replace with a new matching one. Now if you can't find a matching washer for the packing nut, you can use graphite sting. Wrap the string around the stem and the push the packing washer over it and tighten it down. You can do this by using a flat blade screw driver. The reverse the steps, first by reinstalling the packing nut, put the handle on the assembly, put the assembly back in to the spicket, and tighten. Now if the spicket was leaking from the spout, all beginning steps are the same to get the assembly out of the spicket. Then you are going to want to replace the compression washer that is on the bottom of the assembly. Unscrew the nut that holds it in place and replace the washer with it exact match size and shape. Re-screw the screw back on to the assembly to hold the washer. Then reinstall the assembly back into the spicket. With the spicket reinstalled it is safe to turn the water back on. Make sure that all the faucets in the house that you opened are closed first.
Tags: Dispenser Water Faucets Water Purifier System Pure Water Filter Water Bottles Water Distillers Water Meter Water Purify Water Tower Water Store Water Fountains Water Bottling Water Mattress Water Softeners Best Drinking Water
Septic Tank Additive That Works
There are many products on the Internet that claim they improve Septic Tank operation. I, like most owners of homes with Septic Tank Sewer Systems or cesspools, have tried many products to improve the systems operation, lengthen pumping cycles, and lengthen the life of the drainage fields. Some help, some are useless, some are too expensive for the good they do. I have found Bio-R, it is reasonably priced. I flush Bio-R down one of my commodes once a month. Bio-R really does make the septic tank and grey-water reuse system work odor free. By adding this product, which is a specially blended formula in a 2-ounce packet of approximately 300 million bacterial organisms, to my system Bio-R stimulates the biological activity present in my system to eliminate and reduce those problematic areas, resulting in tremendous savings for me.
In researching Bio-R I found it had been in use for many years in the treatment of drains, waste-water, grey-water, reuse, and back-water recycle. Rod Pennington who has worked and had much experience in the waste-water industry developed it. Most of its applications have been directed towards the safe, cost efficient and environmentally friendly elimination or reduction of odors, greases, solids, sludge and related disposal expenses within waste-water systems. The technology can be used to treat tremendous amounts of waste-water with only ounces of media. As a satisfied customer and user for the last five years, I want to spread the word about Bio-R to all homeowners with septic tanks or cesspools, and the folks that treat waste-water in your hometown.
Tags: Septic Tank Info Septic System Septic Drain Field Aeration System Aerobic Tank Septic Solutions Aerobic Septic Aeration Centrifugal Pump Water Treatment Systems Toilet Repairs Home Septic Rug Cleaning Septic Air Office Cleaning
In researching Bio-R I found it had been in use for many years in the treatment of drains, waste-water, grey-water, reuse, and back-water recycle. Rod Pennington who has worked and had much experience in the waste-water industry developed it. Most of its applications have been directed towards the safe, cost efficient and environmentally friendly elimination or reduction of odors, greases, solids, sludge and related disposal expenses within waste-water systems. The technology can be used to treat tremendous amounts of waste-water with only ounces of media. As a satisfied customer and user for the last five years, I want to spread the word about Bio-R to all homeowners with septic tanks or cesspools, and the folks that treat waste-water in your hometown.
Tags: Septic Tank Info Septic System Septic Drain Field Aeration System Aerobic Tank Septic Solutions Aerobic Septic Aeration Centrifugal Pump Water Treatment Systems Toilet Repairs Home Septic Rug Cleaning Septic Air Office Cleaning
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